FAQ & Warranty

Water according to current conditions and the needs of the plant—deep watering less frequently! Check soil conditions by pushing aside mulch and touching the soil. Water only if soil feels dry. If you are uncertain about soil conditions, a moisture meter (available at Holly Days) is a simple, useful tool. On the other hand, several factors will determine how often your plant needs watering. Among these are soil type, exposure, type and size of plant(s), and recent rainfall.

Checking Soil Conditions—Pull away the mulch surrounding the plant, shrub, or tree. Dig down 3-4 inches around the edge of the root ball and take up some soil in your hand. If moisture can be squeezed out, or if it easily sticks together in a ball, do not water. Check the soil again in a few days. Subsequently, if when you take up the soil in your hand, it crumbles and will not stick together, it is time to water.

Shrubs and trees cannot effectively be watered by hand watering. Meanwhile, the best practice is to place a hose at the base of the plant and let the water flow at a slow trickle for 20 minutes on small shrubs and 2 hours on trees. If you setup sprinklers on the shrubs, figure on 2-3 hours minimum of watering. However, for large plants and trees you may consider using your sprinkler overnight.

Not all areas of the landscape will need to be watered at the same time. To ensure proper watering, check the status of your soil in diverse areas of your landscape, e.g., a sloped area, a flat area, shaded or partially shaded area, etc. Most importantly, signs of water stress from too little water include wilting, a change of leaf color (from shiny to dull) and premature leaf fall.

Signs of over watering include yellowing, dropping leaves from center of plant, wilting and damp mulch. Examine the soil 5″ down next to the root ball. If it is damp or wet, let it dry out. If that area is dry, give it some water.

That is to say that, all recently transplanted trees should go into winter with ample moisture in the soil.

Normally, a 2-3″ layer of mulch is recommended. One cubic yard (27 cubic feet) will cover roughly 162 square feet if spread 2” thick. Be sure to smooth the mulch evenly by using a rake, or your hands. Mulch that is lightly patted into place will last longer and prevent soil erosion. When you are finished, a light watering on your mulch will ensure a smooth and finished look.

As beneficial as mulch is, too much can be harmful. The generally recommended mulching depth is 2 to 4 inches. Unfortunately, North American landscapes are falling victim to a plague of over- mulching. A new term, “mulch volcanoes,” has emerged to describe mulch that has been piled up around the base of trees. Most organic mulches must be replenished, but the rate of decomposition varies. Some mulch, such as cypress mulch, can remain intact for many years. Top dressing with new mulch annually (often for the sake of refreshing the color) creates a build-up to depths that can be unhealthy. Deep mulch can be effective in suppressing weeds and reducing maintenance, but it often causes additional problems.

Spring and fall are the best times, but mulch can be spread any time of the year, including winter.

We offer the following mulches:

COLORED MULCHES: Black Night, Beautiful Brown, and Red Rose are colored hardwood mulch. The ability to hold their color throughout the year has made these our most popular mulches. The colored mulches have good stability qualities that make them ideal for steep hills and berms. They are made from hardwoods.

TRIPLE GROUND ROOT MULCH: All-organic, aged root mulch is an excellent complement to any landscape bed. It is comprised of aged wood chips and ground roots. It is brown in color.

PREMIUM HEMLOCK MULCH: All-organic bark mulch has rich color and fibrous texture which holds well on slopes. Distinctive fragrance deters some insects.